Geranium is the oft forgotten and unjustly overlooked second top tier restaurant in Scandinavian culinary capital Copenhagen. After finishing third, then second and finally wining Bocuse d’or Chef Kofoed has made a successful transition from culinary athlete to award-winning restaurateur. Indeed, the bronze, sliver and gold statues attesting to his merits are prominently displayed in the restaurant.
Geranium is, since 2010, located slightly outside the city-center proper on the 8th floor of an office block connected to FC Copenhagen’s football stadium Parken. The entrance is shared with the building’s office-dwellers and accounts for an unusual start to the meal. However, once seated the space between tables is ample in a way that seems reminiscent of a bygone era. There is also an airiness and sense of great expanse provided by the floor to ceiling windows on two sides of the room.
The cuisine is both suitably local and expertly seasonal as is expected at modern Nordic restaurants. Yet, the menu is distinctly lighter and visibly more elegant than its local counterparts. Tremendous skill is evident throughout, with visually stunning presentations and an impressive array of culinary techniques. Plates are laden with seasonal flowers and petals. Geranium, of course shares its name with a family of edible flowers. However, the glorious ingredients are always given room to shine. Such as, melt in your mouth local langoustine with juniper and red herbs or jellied ham with tomato water poured tableside.
It’s an intriguing mix of modern avant-garde and the charm and elegance of old world restaurants. Also the views are quite spectacular overlooking a nearby park with tree leaves changing color with the seasons. Geranium offers a more fulfilling dining experience than other restaurants at the culinary cutting edge. Coupled with accommodating and self-assured service it sure offers a nice change of pace.