After enjoying tremendous success with his pop-up venture “Roganic” Chef Simon Rogan, of L’Enclume** fame, brings his much lauded local and seasonal ingredients to a permanent home in Fera @ Claridge’s. Although it may not be quite as popular among the beautiful folk as Chiltern Firehouse, it is clearly one of the most significant London openings in 2014.
The space itself is beautifully accented in subtle tones of blue and green, and highlighted by the hand-painted mural at the far wall. Fera is rater a large restaurant, seating over 100 patrons. Yet, it never feels intimidating. On the contrary, the numerous leather banquets seem to lend an intimate feel to the room. Not forgetting the vast and dominating tree in the middle of the dining room that hinders unnecessarily long sight lines.
The presentations are artistic, leaning towards the meticulously random plate-ups we have come to associate with the neo-Nordic movement. Not surprising since Rogan’s obsession with locally foraged ingredients is based around the same principles. However, compositions are more playful. And while you will encounter bark-plates and food served on rocks, Rogan is also likely to let some of his modernist techniques shine through. As evident in his exquisite Chick-O-Hake, a lovely piece of hake with crispy chicken skin attached with meat glue and served with mouth-smackingly salty squid. Equally fun and satisfying is his nitro-frozen popping-chocolate dessert.
Service is second to none, and the playfulness of the food translates in to a slightly more welcoming and approachable front of house staff than some of its contemporaries. Ultimately, Fera at Claridge’s is a an expansive space in a prestigious art deco hotel in the middle of Mayfair, so if that’s expressively not your thing you’ll be hard pressed to enjoy it. It does however come across as youthful and trendy in ways you would not expect. As such Rogan’s foraged and toned down molecular gastronomy is perfectly positioned to entice Michelin’s need to attract a new generation.
Fera @ Claridge’s
Brook Street, Mayfair
London W1K 4HR
+44 (0) 20 7107 8888